![]() ![]() ![]() It is widely used by organic gardeners to control caterpillars that feed on cabbage, cauliflowers, and other “Brassica” crops, though it is also effective against corn earworms, cutworms, tomato hornworms, and other worm-like pests. Just be forewarned that there is one major drawback: diatomaceous earth only works when dry, so you have to reapply it whenever it rains.īacillus thuringiensis, or Bt, is a soil-dwelling microbe that is toxic to many insects, but does not harm people, pets, fish, birds, or other wildlife. Simply spread the powder on the surface of the soil around vulnerable plants. It also shreds the bodies of snails and slugs. While soap sprays are good for many soft-bodied flying insects, diatomaceous earth is used for all crawling, hard-bodied insects (those with an exoskeleton), such as ants, spiders, cabbage root maggots, carrot rust fly larvae, cutworms, and onion root maggots. This product, which you can find in garden centers or online, is nothing more than fossilized microbes that have been ground into a powder – a powder that is similar to shards of glass, shredding any soft-bodied insects that slither across it. You can also make your own by mixing one tablespoon of liquid soap in a quart spray bottle – just make sure to use a mild, all-natural soap (like Dr. They are completely non-toxic, killing the insects simply by smothering them with soap, which prevents them from breathing. Soap SpraysĮxtremely effective at killing aphids and other sap-sucking pests, like mealy bugs, mites, leafhoppers, psyllids, scale insects, thrips, and whiteflies, soap sprays are commonly found in garden centers and online suppliers (you can even order them on Amazon ). Here’s what to look for if you suddenly find yourself drawn down the insecticide aisle. Or you could accept that some level of predation is a natural part of the cycle of life – “you win some, and you lose some” is the mantra of many a wise gardener.īut if you still have the urge to kill those evil little things sucking the life out of your plants, know that there are less-toxic, naturally-derived – but still effective – alternatives to the hard stuff. Maybe you can do more to encourage beneficial bugs that will prey on the pests. Perhaps it’s been over- or under-fertilized, or stressed by drought. The first step is to look at the garden as an ecosystem, and ask yourself what’s making that particular crop susceptible – the integrated pest management approach. ![]() But before you reach for the organophosphates and neonicotinoids, or other carcinogenic and beneficial-insect-killing systemic insecticides that are still permitted for pest control in home gardens, consider less drastic methods. ![]()
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